13f. A circular walk from Cotherstone via Romaldkirk and the lovely River Tees

June 2021   North East Index

Extra notes on features of the Cotherstone circular walk via Romaldkirk

See also 13a. The Town of Barnard Castle (Co. Durham) and its Castle

13b. Circular walk to Cotherstone from Barnard Castle on the banks of the River Tees

13c. The Bowes Museum

13d. The ruins of Egglestone Abbey, near Barnard Castle

13e The paintings of Norman Cornish (images from the Bowes Museum Exhibition in 2020)

Scenes of North-East England, Newcastle upon Tyne, Co. Durham & Northumbria - Northumberland and the North Pennine area of outstanding natural beauty.

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This is a walk of great variety, a fascinating old church in an attractive village and regular views of the River Tees.

We started the walk from the Fox and Hounds pub in Cotherstone where there is limited parking, but there is a picnic area and parking down the lane directly across from the pub.

The Cotherstone Castle once stood on this natural mound above the triple walking path signs.

You walk down the lane opposite the Fox and Hounds pub, bear left to cross the River Balder over the footbridge.

We did this walk clockwise - following the west bank of the River Tees and returning on the eastern bank.

The confluence of the smaller River Balder and the 'mighty' River Tees.

The bridge over the River Balder and keep walking along the west side of the RIVER tees, do not cross the other footbridge.

Lovely meadow fields of buttercups east of Thwaite Hall as the path temporarily moves away from Tees.

One of many glimpses of the River Tees as you follow the path to reach Woden Croft.

Woden Croft, one of the infamous 'Yorkshire Schools' researched by Charles Dickens for his novel 'Nicholas Nickleby'

The inevitable rhododendrons!

What are these two strange 'half' iron posts for astride this beck?

You continue to follow the Teesdale Way until you reach the abandoned farmhouse at Low Garth, just south-east of Romaldkirk.

You continue north-west to reach the beautiful enclosed footpath Sennings Lane as you approach Romaldkirk

The large lower green in the village of Romaldkirk - a beautiful picnic spot across from the beautiful Church of St Romald.

The fine looking building of the busy Rose and Crown pub in Romaldkirk.

Another lovely one of Romaldkirk's greens between the Rose and Crown Inn and the Church of St Romald.

The Kirk Inn, now closed up in June 2021, once doubled as the post office.

The Church of St Romald - view from south-east.

Parts of this fine medieval church date back to the 12th century.

The entrance to the Church of St Romald - view from south

The Church of St Romald - south transept on the left

The gravestone of Jonathan Horn and a tribute to his mathematical abilities.

From Romaldkirk you head due north towards Egglestone Bridge.

A wide view north towards Eggleston Hall from Hewcroft Hill

The rear of Egglestone Hall and Eggleston bridge, which you cross to return on the eastern bank of the River Tees.

Eggleston Bridge over the River Tees and the bridge-end house

This fine bridge originally dates from the 15th century and once had a chapel built into it.

Over the bridge you turn sharp right down a private road and follow the Teesdale Way all the way back to the footbridge over the Tees at Cotherstone.

Beautiful wide views south towards Cotherstone from above Shipley Wood

The footbridge crossing the River Tees to return to Cotherstone

A good picnic spot where the River Balder joins the River Tees - on the left you can just see the footbridge over the Tees and on the right a view south downstream.

This is a really good picnic spot and car-parking half-way down from the Fox and Hounds pub in Cotherstone village.

Extra notes on features of the Cotherstone circular walk via Romaldkirk

A circular walk from Cotherstone → Romaldkirk → River Tees → Cotherstone is one of the loveliest low‑level routes in Teesdale — a perfect blend of historic villages, riverside woodland, meadows, and classic Teesdale scenery. What makes it special is the variety: medieval churches, ancient bridges, wildlife‑rich riverbanks, and wide views to the high fells.

Below is a fully structured, detailed guide, written for someone who knows and appreciates the North‑East landscape.

Overview of the Route

• Distance: 5½–7 miles depending on variants

• Terrain: riverside paths, field paths, quiet lanes

• Difficulty: easy–moderate

• Start/finish: Cotherstone village green

• Highlights: Cotherstone’s packhorse bridge, Romaldkirk’s “Cathedral of the Dales”, Teesdale meadows, wildlife, ancient field systems

1. Cotherstone: Start of the Walk

Cotherstone is a classic Teesdale village with stone houses, greens, and a strong sense of place.

Features to notice before setting off

• Cotherstone Castle earthworks (just south of the village): a 12th‑century motte-and‑bailey with later stonework.

• The old packhorse bridge over the Balder: a picturesque 17th‑century structure, narrow and steep‑arched.

• Village greens and pinfold: typical of Teesdale’s medieval settlement pattern.

From the green, head south‑west towards the River Balder and cross the packhorse bridge.

2. Along the Balder to the Tees

After crossing the bridge, the path follows the River Balder downstream until it meets the River Tees.

What to look for

• Alder and willow woodland along the Balder — good for dippers and grey wagtails.

• Meadow pastures with ridge‑and‑furrow earthworks, showing medieval farming patterns.

• The confluence of the Balder and Tees: a beautiful, quiet spot where the two rivers merge.

Turn upstream (right) to follow the Tees towards Romaldkirk.

3. Riverside Path: Teesdale at its Best

This section is the heart of the walk: a gentle, meandering path beside the River Tees.

Scenic and natural highlights

• Shingle banks and riffles — classic Teesdale river morphology.

• Otter signs (spraints on stones) are common along this stretch.

• Ancient ash and oak woodland on the river terraces.

• Views to Kirkcarrion (the tree‑topped Bronze Age burial mound near Middleton‑in‑Teesdale) on clear days.

The path eventually rises slightly away from the river and approaches Romaldkirk.

4. Romaldkirk: One of Teesdale’s Finest Villages

Romaldkirk is a conservation village with three greens, stone houses, and a strong sense of history.

Key features

• St Romald’s Church — often called the “Cathedral of the Dales”.

  • Anglo‑Saxon origins with a pre‑Conquest tower arch.

  • Norman nave arcades.

  • 14th‑century chancel.

  • Medieval effigies, including a knight and a priest.

  • Saxon sundial fragments built into the walls.

• The Rose & Crown — a classic Teesdale inn on the village green.

• Village greens with stocks and a pump.

Romaldkirk is a perfect halfway stop.

5. Return Route: Lanes and Field Paths Back to Cotherstone

From Romaldkirk, you have two main options:

Option A: The High‑Field Return (most scenic)

This route climbs gently through fields and offers wide views over Teesdale.

Features

• Panoramas towards Mickleton, Lunedale, and the high fells.

• Dry‑stone walls typical of upper Teesdale.

• Field barns and evidence of 18th‑century enclosure.

• Wildflowers in summer: knapweed, meadow cranesbill, yellow rattle.

You descend gradually back into Cotherstone from the south.

Option B: The Riverside Return (more sheltered)

Rejoin the Tees and follow the river back to the Balder confluence.

Features

• Shallow fords and stepping stones (depending on water levels).

• Kingfishers often seen flashing low over the water.

• Old pollarded trees showing centuries of woodland management.

Cross the Balder again via the packhorse bridge to return to the village green.

6. Why This Walk Is Special

This circular walk is one of the best short routes in Teesdale because it combines:

• Two historic villages with strong architectural character

• One of the most beautiful stretches of the River Tees

• Wildlife‑rich woodland and meadows

• Anglo‑Saxon and medieval heritage

• Classic Teesdale views without strenuous climbing

It’s a perfect half‑day walk in any season.

North East Index

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