27. A circular walk from Sandsend through the Mulgrave Estate House & Gardens, passing by the medieval Mulgrave Castle and Lythe Village

Scenes of Whitby and surrounding area in North Yorkshire

 Whitby and Scarborough Index

[Author and photographer © Dr Phil Brown PhD

Sadly, on a very grey day! BUT See page 3 for better Sandsend weather!

as illustrated below!

Sandsend beach and village

You start the walk from near the road bridge and go up the track by the old mill, which I think goes back centuries?.

Walking up the heavily wooded Mulgrave Estate.

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The old medieval Mulgrave Castle was constructed in 1214, which was converted into a hunting lodge in 1600.

The Castle was besieged twice in the Civil War and then blown up!

Some of the buttressed walls of the old medieval Mulgrave Castle

The ruins of the main domestic range of Mulgrave Castle

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After viewing the 'old' Castle you then head for Lythe Village through a short tunnel, purpose?

The weather was steadily deteriorating looking towards Whitby across the bay at Sandsend!

Coming down the hill towards Lythe Church.

St Oswald's Church, Lythe, North Yorkshire, is the result of an almost total rebuild by Sir Thomas Tapper in 1910, but reused much of the surviving medieval stonework. His intention was to reproduce the structure of the church as it was in the 16th century.

The 1910 south door of St Oswald's Church, Lythe carved in 'Gothic' style.

The rood screen and organ of St Oswald's Church, Lythe.

The main interior of the church, the nave and the reconstructed arches of the aisles of St Oswald's Church, Lythe.

A medieval piscina and sedilia survive inside St Oswald's Church, Lythe.

A finely carved oak rood screen in St Oswald's Church, Lythe.

Anglo-Saxon pieces of masonry were found showing this church has pretty ancient origins.

A medieval carved capital stone and an Anglo Saxon found in the grounds of St Oswald's Church, Lythe.

Carvings on a Viking hogback gravestone found at St Oswald's Church, Lythe.

Anglo Saxon or Anglo-Scandinavian cross head in St Oswald's Church, Lythe.

The Gardens of the latest house known as Mulgrave House on the Mulgrave Estate

The gardens of the Mulgrave Estate are open to the public on a few days of the year in aid of local charities.

Its a really good day out and for a worthy cause - enjoy the beautiful flowers and engaging walking.

The main house of Mulgrave House that replaced the old medieval Mulgrave Castle.

The house was built from 1706-1725 and castellated in the 19th century.

Two views from the 'Quarter Deck' in Mulgrave House.

Out to sea and along the coast to Whitby Abbey

A great old sweet chestnut tree in the parkland of the Mulgrave House.

The Mulgrave House was landscaped to the designs of Repton.

Looking down across the woods and parkland of Mulgrave House towards the distant blurred image of the original medieval Mulgrave Castle.

The beautiful walled garden of Mulgrave House.

walled garden

The Spring Garden of Mulgrave Castle gardens

Stature of Pan in the Formal Garden

The four Italian statues in the Formal Garden of the Mulgrave House.

The Glasshouse of Mulgrave Castle House Lots of different plants flourish beneath the glass panels including grapes for wine. Excellent advice on pruning was forthcoming!

The box hedging design in the formal garden.

Back in stormy Sandsend for some welcome refreshment.

A history of the old medieval Mulgrave Castle and the later Mulgrave House (the Castle) and Gardens

Mulgrave has two intertwined histories:

1. the old medieval Mulgrave Castle, now a dramatic ruin hidden deep in Mulgrave Woods, and

2. the later Mulgrave House / Mulgrave Castle, the 18th–19th‑century mansion and landscaped gardens created by the Phipps family.

Below is a clear, structured account of both, grounded in the most authoritative sources available.

1. The Old Medieval Mulgrave Castle

Core takeaway: The medieval castle was a Norman baronial stronghold, later expanded, fought over, and finally destroyed in 1647. Its ruins remain one of the most atmospheric sites in the Mulgrave Woods.

Legendary origins

Local tradition claims the earliest fortification was founded by Wada, a semi‑mythical 6th‑century ruler said to have built many structures across Yorkshire. This is folklore rather than archaeology, but it shows the site’s deep cultural resonance.

Norman foundation (11th–12th century)

The first historically attested castle was built by Nigel Fossard, a major Norman landholder recorded in the Domesday Book (1086). He established Mulgrave as the caput of the feudal barony of Mulgrave, which by 1166 comprised over 30 knight’s fees, marking it as a major regional power centre.

Architecture and defensive layout

Archaeological descriptions show a classic Norman enclosure castle:

• Built on a narrow ridge between Sandsend Beck and East Row Beck, using the natural topography for defence.

• Curtain walls, dry moats, and a drawbridge controlling the western approach.

• A central square keep with four cylindrical angle towers, and a southern gateway tower.

• The platform measures roughly 90m × 70m, raised up to 7.2m above surrounding ground.

Medieval ownership

The castle passed through several major families:

• Fossard → de Turnham → de Mauley → Bigod → Radcliffe.
  Peter de Mauley, the first Baron Mauley, is historically notable (and notorious) for his association with King John and the death of Prince Arthur.

Decline and destruction

• By 1309, parts of the castle were already reported as ruinous.

• During the English Civil War, it was held by Royalists.

• In 1647, Parliament ordered it slighted (demolished with gunpowder) to prevent further military use. This ended its life as a fortress.

Landscape setting

The ruins sit within Mulgrave Woods, later incorporated into an 18th–19th‑century designed landscape influenced by Humphry Repton.

2. Mulgrave House (Later Mulgrave Castle) & Gardens

Core takeaway: The mansion is an 18th‑century country house transformed through Georgian and Gothic phases, surrounded by landscaped gardens and parkland created by leading architects and designers.

Early 18th‑century origins

The estate passed to Lady Catherine Darnley, illegitimate daughter of King James II.
She built the first substantial house on the site before 1735—a rectangular three‑storey building.

In 1718, her daughter Catherine Annesley married William Phipps, bringing the estate into the Phipps family, later Marquesses of Normanby.

Georgian remodelling (1786–87)

Sir John Soane, one of Britain’s greatest architects, was commissioned by Constantine John Phipps (2nd Baron Mulgrave) to remodel and enlarge the house:

• Added two new wings

• Rebuilt the interior

• Created a refined pedimented Georgian residence
  Soane’s work forms the core of the present building.

Gothic and baronial transformations (1804–1840s)

• William Atkinson added battlements in 1804–05.

• By the 1840s, further Gothic/baronial towers and a grand entrance hall were added, reflecting Victorian taste for medieval revival.

Gardens and parkland

The estate’s 377‑hectare park and gardens (Grade II*) include:

• Wooded valleys and designed walks

• Ruins of the medieval castle integrated as romantic features

• Landscaping influenced by Humphry Repton, who proposed improvements in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

Estate continuity

The Phipps family remain the owners today, maintaining the house, woods, and gardens as part of the Mulgrave Estate.

3. Summary Table

The village of Lythe and its ancient church of St Oswald

Lythe is one of the most historically layered villages on the North Yorkshire coast, combining Anglo‑Scandinavian archaeology, a Grade I medieval church, and a living connection to the Mulgrave Estate. Below is a structured, evidence‑based guide to its history, archaeology, architecture, and places to eat or drink, grounded in the sources above.

Lythe is an ancient settlement overlooking Sandsend, notable for Viking‑era carved stones, a 13th‑century church rebuilt in 1910, and a strong historic link to the Mulgrave lords. The village today centres on St Oswald’s Church, The Stiddy pub, and easy access to Sandsend cafés.

1. History of Lythe

Lythe’s name derives from the Scandinavian hlith meaning “slope”, reflecting its dramatic position above the coast. The village is mentioned in the Domesday Book, indicating continuous occupation since at least the 11th century.

The parish historically covered a very large area—around 40 square miles—including Egton and Ugthorpe.

Lythe has deep Anglo‑Saxon and Viking roots. Funeral monuments from as early as the 10th century have been identified, and the church site is associated with a Viking burial ground.

The village later became closely tied to the Mulgrave Estate, whose medieval and later castles lie just south of the village.

2. Archaeology: Viking & Medieval Stones

St Oswald’s Church contains one of the most important collections of Anglo‑Scandinavian carved stones in northern England. These include:

• Viking‑era cross fragments

• Pre‑Conquest carved stones found in the tower walls during early 20th‑century rebuilding

• An Anglo‑Norman stone coffin and crosshead on display

These finds confirm the site’s significance as a Viking burial and early Christian centre.

3. St Oswald’s Church, Lythe

Grade I listed (designated 1969), St Oswald’s stands at the top of Lythe Bank and is visible for miles from land and sea.

Historical development

• 13th century: First documented church on the site.

• Pre‑Conquest: Stones reused in the tower indicate an earlier church or burial ground.

• 1769: Tower renovated.

• 1819: Major renovation of the whole church.

• 1910: Rebuilt by Sir Walter Tapper, retaining only the north wall and east end of the chancel. Tapper added a spire to the Norman tower, serving as a coastal way‑marker for sailors.

Architectural character

• Norman tower core with Tapper’s early‑20th‑century spire

• Medieval fabric in the chancel and north wall

• Interior exhibition (opened 2008) displaying Viking and Anglo‑Norman stones, funded by the Heritage Lottery and Nortrail.

Ecclesiastical history

The church was granted to Nostell Priory in the 12th century and dedicated to St Oswald, reflecting the priory’s patron saint.
It later became Crown property after the execution of Sir Francis Bigod in the 1530s.

A notable vicar was John Fisher, later Cardinal Fisher, executed in 1535 and canonised in 1935.

4. The Village Today

Lythe remains a small, friendly community with dramatic views over Sandsend and the North Sea. It is a gateway to:

• Sandsend Beach

• Mulgrave Woods

• North York Moors walking routes

The Lythe Community Shop & Post Office serves as a local hub.

5. Pubs & Cafés (Lythe & immediate area)

In Lythe

The Stiddy (formerly The Red Lion)

• Traditional village pub with a long association with the Normanby family.

• Known for the historic custom of “Firing the Stiddy” to mark family celebrations.

In Sandsend (just below Lythe Bank)

Sandside Café – Popular seafront café, £1–10 range, highly rated.
Wits End Café – Another well‑loved spot on Lythe Bank, £10–20.
The Hart Inn – A classic coastal pub with food, £10–20.

Nearby villages

The Black Bull Inn, Ugthorpe – Traditional pub, £20–30.
The Forge Inn, Aislaby – Historic inn with excellent reviews.

6. Summary Table

See page 3 for better Sandsend weather!

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